The Notre Dame Cathedral in Saigon is, in many ways, the heart of Saigon. During big celebrations--Christian or not--the square surrounding this church becomes choked with humanity. But on most days the wide boulevards surrounding it are among the most traffic free intersections in the city. We were lucky enough to be staying one block away--literally a two-minute walk from our front door. Of course, we waited to make a proper visit until the last few weeks of our stay, once I was good and preggers. Our friend Duy, one of the most staunch of Vietnam's 15 or so million Catholics, gave us the tour.
It was designed by the French architect Bouvard in 1877-1880 on what is believed to be the site of an ancient pagoda. Constructed of granite and red brick from Europe in a Neo-Romanesque style with twin spires.
The front of the Cathedral with a statue of the Virgin Mary. I am seven month pregnant. People surround Mary with candles 24/7. Weekends and holidays it's packed. And, like so many inanimate Marys, there are claims that about two years ago she shed actual tears. The Vatican didn't recognize it as an official miracle, but that didn't stop the throngs from pouring in. Duy explained that probably 25% of the people who came to see her cry and light a candle or two for good merit were Buddhists.
The back end.
Prayers to the Virgin Mary. No, Pearce is not praying.
People pay a handsome sum to have a brick made and plastered inside. Most simply express thanks to Mary for some assist she dished out. There are many French and American ones.
Eric had Pearce believing that the statue came alive at night, walked around the city, and ate pigeons (which is why they're always pooping on her during the day). This, I suppose, is how we parents warp humanity--one ridiculous tale after another to spare them--and ourselves--of boredom.
Feeding the birds.
In Vietnam's cities, grassy areas are off limits. Most are policed to make sure no one walks or lays on these rare patches of green. We told our Vietnamese friends that we run and play on grassy areas in America. They normally stared back in unbelief, and sometimes argued that grass is not for running on--doing so would kill the grass.
0 comments:
Post a Comment